Wednesday, April 11, 2018

L'Esprit Champagne Castelnau 'Hors Catégorie'

by Paige Donner

Maybe it's because there's a woman Chef de Cave, Elisabeth Sarcelet, at Champagne Castelnau? Or maybe it's simply because the champagne limited edition by Castelnau designated 'Hors Catégorie' which translates into English as 'priceless' or 'beyond categorization,' is a limited edition unique blend? But there's something about this cuvée that truly makes it exceptional.  

Each of these limited edition release cuvées under the label Hors Catégorie are blended to stand alone. They are not a standard by which other champagnes of the house will be blended, as is the production M.O. in Champagne (with a few exceptions such as Jacquesson).  When Ms. Sarcelet blends this cuvée she does so by selecting only the most exceptional wines in the cellar and then delicately and expertly blends them to bring out only the best individual characteristics of each of the singularly vinified cuvées. Each of these champagnes released under this special label or "cuvée" is made to stand alone. 

What's even more extraordinary is that in this current release of Hors Catégorie, CCF 2067 released on 22nd January, 2018, there is only 5 g. of sugar. But its roundness and its voluptuousness would have even the most expert of champagne connoisseurs guessing otherwise. 

" For this second edition, the spirit of Hors Catégorie is ever present. As its fine bubbles burst we are transported to a universe of spice and vanilla notes. A gentle signature of oak is conferred by ageing for 10 months in Burgundy barrels made from wood from the local Argonne forest, and it is this that gives some smoky notes to the blend. An aromatic complexity develops as the wine opens up with scents of toast, candied lemon and delicate minty notes.  - Elisabeth Sarcelet, Chef de Cave, Champagne Castelnau

Elisabeth Sarcelet, Chef de Cave, Champagne Castelnau, pictured above

According to the tasting notes, the best wines for this release, Hors Catégorie CCF 2067, were selected mainly from Trépail, Villers-Marlery, Montgueux, Vitryat, Riceys and Montagne Ouest. Fifteen % from 2011 harvest and 85% of reserve wine from 2010 (a very good year in Champagne). Aged for nearly a year in oak from Burgundy. 

15% Chardonnay 

40% Pinot Noir

45% Pinot Meunier

3600 bottles. 300 magnums. Produced June 2012. Disgorged May 2017. 

Click Here for the Product Sheet


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All photos  copyright 2018  Paige Donner  FoodWine.photography

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